Rajasthan · India · City Guide
Jodhpur, the Blue City
The proud capital of Marwar - a sea of indigo houses beneath one of the mightiest forts in the world, gateway to the Thar desert and the land of the Rathores.
The City
Indigo beneath a great fort
Founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha of the Rathore clan, Jodhpur was the capital of Marwar, the 'land of death' on the edge of the Thar - and it grew rich on the caravan trade between Delhi, Gujarat and central Asia. Above it all rears Mehrangarh, a fort so vast and sheer it seems carved from the cliff itself, with the blue old city tumbling at its feet.
Those famous indigo houses - painted, it is said, to mark Brahmin homes and to cool the rooms - make Jodhpur the Blue City, best seen from the fort's ramparts at dusk. Below lie the bustling Clock Tower bazaar, the marble cenotaph of Jaswant Thada, and the last great palace built in princely India, Umaid Bhawan, still part-home to the royal family.
This guide covers everything for a rich two days in Jodhpur - the fort and the palaces, the blue lanes and the bazaars, where to stay and what to eat, and the desert and villages beyond.
Jodhpur at a Glance
The essentials
State
Rajasthan, North India
Best time
October to March
Ideal stay
2 nights
Getting there
Jodhpur Airport (JDH), 5 km; major rail head
Known for
Mehrangarh Fort & the blue old city
Also called
The Blue City · the Sun City · Gateway to the Thar
Don't miss
Mehrangarh at sunset
Pairs with
Udaipur, Jaisalmer, the desert, the Golden Triangle
What to See
Temples near Jodhpur: Ranakpur sits between Jodhpur and Udaipur and is among the finest marble temples in India — see the Jain tirths guide.
The grandeur of Marwar
A colossal fort, a marble cenotaph, the last great palace of princely India and a blue old city of bazaars - the wonders of Jodhpur.
Mehrangarh · half dayMehrangarh Fort
Rising 120 metres of sheer wall straight from the rock, Mehrangarh is among the most magnificent forts in the world - and one of the best run, with an outstanding museum inside its honey-stone palaces. You pass through gates still scarred by cannon and bearing the handprints of royal widows, into courtyards of carved sandstone screens, mirror-work halls, palanquins and arms, and out onto ramparts with the whole blue city spread far below.
Come in the late afternoon for the golden light and the indigo view - and time it for the daily ritual and music. It is the unforgettable heart of Jodhpur.
Jaswant Thada
A serene 1899 memorial of intricately carved white marble - the 'Taj of Marwar' - beside a lake just below the fort, with sweeping views and Rathore royal portraits. A lovely, peaceful counterpoint.
Umaid Bhawan Palace
A colossal Art-Deco sandstone palace, one of the largest private residences on earth, completed in 1943 - part royal home, part Taj hotel, part museum of the family's vintage cars and clocks.
The blue old city
The warren of indigo-washed houses below the fort, around Navchokiya - the most photogenic streets in Rajasthan, best explored slowly on foot with a guide.
Clock Tower & Sardar Market
The lively market at the heart of the old city around the Ghanta Ghar clock tower - spices, textiles, sweets, silver and the famous makhaniya lassi.
Toorji ka Jhalra
A beautifully restored 18th-century stepwell, now ringed by cafes and boutiques - the cool, social heart of the revived old town.
Mandore Gardens
The earlier capital of Marwar, 9 km north - garden cenotaphs of the Rathore kings, temples and a hall of heroes among the trees.
Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park
A restored desert ecology park below the fort, with marked trails through native rock and flora and superb fort views - a fine morning walk.
Getting Your Bearings
The lie of the city
- The blue old city — the indigo lanes below Mehrangarh, the Clock Tower bazaar and Toorji stepwell; the atmospheric heart, with boutique heritage stays.
- Below the fort — Jaswant Thada and the Rock Park, a short climb or drive from the old town.
- Umaid Bhawan & the cantonment — the palace, leafier residential areas and some larger hotels, a few kilometres south-east.
- The desert edge — the road out towards Osian, the Bishnoi villages and the dunes.
Where to Stay
Palaces & blue-city boutiques
Jodhpur ranges from a living royal palace to design-led havelis in the blue lanes. A selection across the tiers.
Umaid Bhawan Palace
Live in one wing of the world's last great palace, still home to the Maharaja - vast Art-Deco grandeur, gardens, peacocks and impeccable Taj service. Unforgettable.
RAAS Jodhpur
A stunning contemporary boutique hotel inside a restored haveli right beneath the fort - sandstone and steel, a pool with a floodlit-Mehrangarh view. The chic choice.
Ajit Bhawan & Ratan Vilas
Gracious heritage palace-hotels of the royal family and nobility - gardens, old-world charm and warm hospitality.
Bal Samand Lake Palace
A romantic 19th-century summer palace on a lake just outside town, set in mango orchards - a serene retreat.
Pal Haveli & Raas Haveli
Restored old-city havelis with rooftop restaurants and fort views - character in the heart of the lanes.
Mihir Garh & the desert forts
Pair the city with the spectacular Mihir Garh fort-hotel or a luxury desert camp on the Thar's edge.
Where to Eat
Marwari flavours & makhaniya lassi
Jodhpur's food is robust Marwari cooking, fierce sweets and the creamiest lassi in India. What to seek out.
- Mirchi vada & pyaaz kachori — the city's beloved fried snacks, eaten hot with chutney.
- Makhaniya lassi — a thick, saffron-and-cream lassi crowned with malai - a Jodhpur institution.
- Marwari thali — dal baati churma, gatte, ker sangri (desert beans & berries) and bajra rotis.
- Laal maas & mutton — the fiery Rajasthani red mutton curry, at its best in Marwar.
Janta Sweet Home & Shahi Samosa
The temples of the mirchi vada, pyaaz kachori and makhaniya lassi near the Clock Tower - the essential Jodhpur taste.
Indique & Pal Haveli
Romantic rooftop tables facing the floodlit Mehrangarh - Rajasthani and Indian classics at sunset.
Umaid Bhawan & RAAS
Refined Marwari and international dining in palatial settings - the grand evening out.
Gypsy & the thali houses
The unlimited Rajasthani thali - dal baati churma, ker sangri and gatte, generous and authentic.
Toorji ka Jhalra
Stylish cafes around the restored stepwell for coffee, global plates and people-watching.
Ker sangri & bajra
Seek out the true desert dishes - dried beans, berries and millet - a taste found only in Marwar.
Shopping
Antiques, textiles & spices
Antiques & furniture
Jodhpur is India's antiques capital - restored colonial and Rajasthani furniture, doors and curios, shipped worldwide from the dealers on the city's edges.
Sardar Market
The fragrant spice shops around the Clock Tower - whole spices, blends and the famous Mathania red chillies.
Bandhej & block-print
Tie-dye bandhej, block prints, embroidery and Jodhpuri fabrics from the old-city bazaars.
Silver, leather & lac
Tribal silver, juttis, lacquer bangles and puppets in Sardar Market - lively bargaining included.
A note on antiques and commissions: furniture and 'factory' shops pay heavy commissions to drivers and guides. We introduce only reputable dealers and arrange honest shipping.
Beyond the City
Day trips from Jodhpur
Bishnoi villages
A safari among the Bishnoi - India's original conservationists - with blackbuck and chinkara, potters, weavers and a desert way of life. The classic Jodhpur excursion.
Osian
Ancient, beautifully carved Hindu and Jain temples in a desert town, and the dunes beyond - a half-day into the Thar, with luxury camps nearby.
Mihir Garh & the desert forts
The sculptural Mihir Garh fort-hotel and horse country - a romantic lunch or overnight on the desert's edge.
Rohetgarh
A heritage village fort-hotel famous for its Bishnoi safaris and birdlife - a lovely rural retreat.
Udaipur via Ranakpur
The road south to the lakes, by way of the exquisite Ranakpur Jain temple and Kumbhalgarh fort.
Jaisalmer
The golden desert city deeper in the Thar - the next great leg of a Marwar journey.
When to Visit
The Jodhpur year
The season - warm, clear days and cool desert nights, ideal for the fort and the blue city. The Marwar and (nearby) desert festivals fall in this window.
Best timeFiercely hot, often above 42°C in this desert city - sightseeing at dawn and dusk only.
Brief, welcome rains green the desert edge; warm and humid but quieter, with lower rates.
The Rajasthan International Folk Festival (RIFF) at Mehrangarh around Sharad Purnima, the Marwar Festival, and a fine Diwali and Gangaur.
Festivals: the Rajasthan International Folk Festival (RIFF) at Mehrangarh in October, the Marwar Festival, Gangaur in spring, and a glowing Diwali.
How to Plan It
Suggested itineraries
One Full Day
The essentials
- Morning: Mehrangarh Fort and its museum; Jaswant Thada.
- Afternoon: a walk through the blue old city and the Clock Tower bazaar.
- Sunset: the fort ramparts or a rooftop with the indigo view.
- Umaid Bhawan by night.
Two Days
Fort, city & desert
- Day 1: Mehrangarh, Jaswant Thada, the blue lanes and bazaars.
- Day 2: a Bishnoi village safari and Osian's temples and dunes.
- Rooftop dinners facing the floodlit fort.
Marwar Circuit
The grand arc
- Two days in Jodhpur.
- On to Jaisalmer and the deep desert.
- Or south to Udaipur via Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh.
Good to Know
Practical Jodhpur
Getting there
Jodhpur Airport (JDH) is just 5 km from the centre, with flights from Delhi and Mumbai; the city is a major rail head (the overnight train from Delhi is a classic) and an easy drive from Udaipur, Jaisalmer and Jaipur. We arrange private transfers.
Getting around
The old city is best on foot with a guide (the blue lanes are a maze); a private car and driver handle the fort, palaces and desert. Tuk-tuks fill the gaps.
Money
ATMs and cards in hotels and bigger shops; carry cash for the bazaars, snacks and tips. The currency is the Indian rupee (INR).
Etiquette
Dress modestly and remove shoes at temples and Jaswant Thada; ask before photographing people in the blue lanes - most are gracious, and a guide smooths the way.
Safety
Jodhpur is welcoming and safe, including for women, with normal precautions. Eat freshly cooked food and drink bottled or filtered water; pace yourself in the desert heat.
Visa
Most nationalities need only an Indian e-Visa, applied for online before travel - we send a step-by-step guide with every booking.
From Mehrangarh's ramparts at dusk, the whole blue city glows like a bed of cooling embers beneath the desert sky.
Travel With Us
Journeys through Marwar
Jodhpur is the gateway to Marwar and the Thar desert. Every journey is private and fully tailored, with a palace hotel where you wish, a car and driver throughout.
LuxuryMarwar Luxury Circuit
Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and the Thar in full luxury.
AdventureDesert Camel Safari
Into the dunes of the Thar by camel and jeep.
LuxuryRajasthan Royale
Jaipur · Jodhpur · Udaipur — three royal cities, three palace hotels.
Common Questions
Jodhpur, answered
Plan your Jodhpur
Tell us your dates and your style, and we will craft a private Jodhpur of fort, palace and indigo lanes - a royal hotel, an expert guide, the bazaars and the desert beyond. A thoughtful proposal follows within 24 hours.
Planning a trip to Jodhpur?
Tell us roughly what you have in mind and we will send a considered reply — not a brochure. Usually within 24 hours, Kolkata office hours.