Rajasthan · India · City Guide
Jaisalmer, the Golden City
A mirage of honey-gold sandstone rising from the Thar - a living fortress, mansions carved like lace, and the great dunes beyond, the last caravan city of the desert.
The City
A golden mirage in the Thar
Founded in 1156 on a caravan route between India and central Asia, Jaisalmer grew fabulously rich on the trade in silk, spice and opium - and its merchants and rulers spent that wealth carving the soft golden sandstone of the desert into one of the most beautiful cities on earth. At sunset the whole place glows like honey, which is why it is called the Golden City.
Crowning it is Jaisalmer Fort - one of the very few living forts in the world, with a quarter of the old town still inside its golden ramparts: temples, havelis, shops and homes within the walls. Below spread the lace-like mansions of the merchants, a sacred lake, exquisite Jain temples - and beyond the last houses, the great dunes of the Thar, where camel safaris and luxury tented camps await.
This guide covers everything for a desert journey to Jaisalmer - the living fort and the havelis, the dunes and the camps, where to stay and what to eat, and the best of the Thar.
Jaisalmer at a Glance
The essentials
State
Rajasthan, North India
Best time
October to March
Ideal stay
2–3 nights
Getting there
Jaisalmer Airport (JSA, seasonal), 17 km; overnight train from Jodhpur/Delhi
Known for
The Golden Fort, havelis & the dunes
Also called
The Golden City · the Jewel of the Thar
Don't miss
A night under the stars at the dunes
Pairs with
Jodhpur, the desert, the wider Rajasthan circuit
What to See
The jewels of the desert
A living golden fort, mansions carved like ivory, a sacred lake and the great dunes - the wonders of Jaisalmer.
Fort & dunesJaisalmer Fort & the dunes
Jaisalmer Fort (Sonar Quila) is one of the last living forts on earth - climb through its golden gateways and a quarter of the old city is still inside, a warren of temple spires, carved balconies, tiny shops and homes, all in honey sandstone that blazes at sunset. Then drive out past the last houses to the rippled Sam and Khuri dunes, for a camel at golden hour and a night of stars, folk music and firelight at a desert camp.
Fort by day, dunes by dusk - together they are the soul of a Jaisalmer journey.
Patwon ki Haveli
The grandest of Jaisalmer's merchant mansions - a cluster of five havelis with façades of breathtakingly intricate carved-sandstone screens (jharokhas). The finest, with Nathmal ji ki and Salim Singh ki havelis nearby.
The Jain Temples
A connected group of exquisite 12th–15th-century Jain temples within the fort, every surface carved with thousands of figures in golden stone, plus the ancient Gyan Bhandar library of palm-leaf manuscripts.
Gadisar Lake
A serene man-made lake ringed by ghats, shrines and pavilions, built to water the desert city - lovely at dawn for the light, the birds and a boat.
Sam & Khuri Sand Dunes
The great rippled dunes 40 km west (Sam) and the quieter Khuri - camel and jeep safaris, sunset and the luxury tented camps. The desert experience.
Kuldhara
An eerie, beautifully preserved village abandoned overnight in the 19th century by its Paliwal Brahmins - a haunting, story-filled half-day.
Bada Bagh & Vyas Chhatri
The golden royal cenotaphs of Bada Bagh among the wind turbines, and the Vyas Chhatri pavilions - the finest sunset views over the city.
The fort palaces & museums
The Raj Mahal palace-museum within the fort and the Thar Heritage and Desert Culture museums - the story of the desert kingdom.
Getting Your Bearings
The lie of the land
- Inside the fort — the living citadel of temples, havelis and tiny lanes; atmospheric heritage stays (though, to protect the fragile fort, many choose to stay below).
- The old city below — the great havelis, the bazaars and Gadisar Lake; the main hotels and restaurants cluster here.
- The dunes — Sam (40 km) and Khuri (45 km), with the desert camps for a night under the stars.
- The desert fringe — Kuldhara, Bada Bagh and the wide, open Thar all around.
Where to Stay
Desert palaces & luxury camps
Jaisalmer offers golden boutique forts in town and some of India's finest luxury desert camps. A selection across the tiers.
Suryagarh
A magnificent fort-style luxury hotel on the desert's edge - golden ramparts, courtyards, a spa and superb dining, with dune excursions and 'lost-village' experiences. The standout.
Sujan The Serai
An exquisite tented camp of canvas suites with private decks among the dunes - the height of desert luxury, with campfires and stargazing.
The Gulaal & Killa Bhawan
Stylish boutique stays in and below the golden fort - carved sandstone, rooftop views and character.
Jaisalmer Marriott & Fort Rajwada
Larger, polished hotels in golden-fort style with pools and full facilities - dependable bases.
Restored merchant mansions
Sleep in a carved haveli in the old city - intimate, atmospheric and full of history.
Sam & Khuri camps
From simple to luxurious tented camps at the dunes for a night of music, fire and desert stars.
Where to Eat
Desert food & golden rooftops
Jaisalmer's cooking is true Marwari desert fare, eaten on rooftops facing the golden fort. What to seek out.
- Ker sangri — the signature dish of dried desert beans and berries, tangy and spiced.
- Dal baati churma — the Rajasthani classic of baked wheat, lentils and sweet crumble.
- Gatte ki sabzi & bajra roti — gram-flour dumplings in gravy and millet bread, desert staples.
- Makhaniya lassi & ghotua ladoo — the creamy saffron lassi and the local sweet.
Saffron & The Trio
The classic rooftop tables facing the floodlit Golden Fort - Rajasthani thalis and Indian classics at sunset.
Suryagarh & The Serai
Refined Marwari and global dining in spectacular fort and camp settings - the grand desert evening.
Desert Boy's Dhani & thali houses
Generous Rajasthani thalis with folk music in a courtyard - hearty and authentic.
Fort cafes & bakeries
Rooftop coffee, lassi and global plates within and below the fort - a relaxed Jaisalmer afternoon.
Ker sangri & panchkuta
Seek out the true Thar dishes - dried beans, berries and the five-ingredient 'panchkuta' - found at their best here.
Dinner at the dunes
A barbecue and Rajasthani feast under the stars at a desert camp, with folk dance and fire.
Shopping
Mirror-work, leather & stone
Embroidery & mirror-work
Bright Thar embroidery, mirror-work textiles, cushion covers, bags and wall hangings - the desert's most distinctive craft.
Camel-leather goods
Embossed camel-leather slippers, bags and journals - a classic Jaisalmer buy.
Carved sandstone
Small carved-sandstone boxes, lamps and jali screens echoing the havelis, plus antiques and silver.
Bandhani & blankets
Tie-dye bandhani, applique and warm woollen shawls and blankets from the fort and old-city shops.
A note on commissions: shops inside the fort and on safari routes often pay guides and drivers. We point you to honest artisans and cooperatives.
Beyond the City
From Jaisalmer into the Thar
Sam Sand Dunes
The great rippled dunes - camel rides at golden hour, jeep safaris and a night at a desert camp with music and stars. The essential excursion.
Khuri Dunes
Quieter, more authentic dunes and villages to the south-west - a gentler desert night.
Kuldhara & Khaba Fort
The hauntingly abandoned Paliwal village and a small desert fort - a story-filled half-day.
Bada Bagh & Vyas Chhatri
The golden royal cenotaphs among wind turbines, and the finest sunset chhatris over the city.
Pokhran
The desert fort town on the road east, and the long, open road back to Jodhpur.
Wildlife & the great Indian bustard
The protected Thar ecosystem - desert wildlife, fossils and the rare great Indian bustard, with a permit and guide.
When to Visit
The Jaisalmer year
The season - warm, clear days and cold desert nights (pack layers), perfect for the fort and the dunes. February brings the famous Desert Festival.
Best timeExtreme desert heat, often 45°C+ - to be avoided; only dawn and dusk are bearable.
Very little rain reaches the deep desert; hot but occasionally dramatic, and quiet.
Three days of camel races, turban-tying, folk music and dance in the dunes near Sam - the great event of the Jaisalmer year.
HighlightFestivals: the spectacular Jaisalmer Desert Festival in February (camel races, folk music and dance at the dunes), plus a desert Holi and Diwali.
How to Plan It
Suggested itineraries
Two Nights
Fort & dunes
- Day 1: Jaisalmer Fort, the Jain temples and the great havelis; sunset at Bada Bagh.
- Day 2: Gadisar Lake at dawn, Kuldhara, then camel safari and a night at a desert camp.
- Rooftop dinners facing the golden fort.
Three Nights
The deep desert
- The two-day essentials, slower.
- A full desert day - dunes, villages and a luxury camp.
- Time for the museums, shopping and a second sunset.
Marwar Circuit
The grand arc
- The overnight train or drive from Jodhpur.
- Two to three days in Jaisalmer and the dunes.
- Return through the desert to Jodhpur, or onward across Rajasthan.
Good to Know
Practical Jaisalmer
Getting there
Jaisalmer has a seasonal airport (JSA, 17 km, mainly winter flights); most arrive on the classic overnight train from Jodhpur or Delhi, or by road (Jodhpur is ~5 hours). We arrange private transfers and the train.
Getting around
The fort and old city are walking territory (the fort lanes are pedestrian); a private car and driver handle the havelis, lake and dunes. We arrange camel and jeep safaris with trusted operators.
Staying in the fort
The living fort's drainage is fragile; many responsible travellers now stay below the walls and visit by day. We advise on the best, most sustainable options.
Money
Carry cash - ATMs exist but are fewer, and the bazaars, safaris and camps often prefer it. Cards work in hotels. The currency is the Indian rupee (INR).
Desert tips
Pack layers for cold nights, sun protection and sturdy shoes; the border-area Desert National Park needs a permit, which we arrange.
Visa
Most nationalities need only an Indian e-Visa, applied for online before travel - we send a step-by-step guide with every booking.
At sunset Jaisalmer turns to pure gold - a carved sandcastle of a city, floating on the edge of the great Thar.
Travel With Us
Journeys into the Thar
Jaisalmer is the climax of any desert journey. Every trip is private and fully tailored, with a fort hotel or luxury camp, a car and driver throughout.
AdventureDesert Camel Safari
Into the Thar dunes by camel and jeep, with a desert camp.
FestivalJaisalmer Desert Festival
Camel races, folk music and dance in the February dunes.
LuxuryMarwar Luxury Circuit
Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and the Thar in full luxury.
Common Questions
Jaisalmer, answered
Plan your Jaisalmer
Tell us your dates and your style, and we will craft a private Jaisalmer of golden fort and open desert - a fort hotel or luxury camp, an expert guide, a camel at sunset and a night of stars. A thoughtful proposal follows within 24 hours.
Planning a trip to Jaisalmer?
Tell us roughly what you have in mind and we will send a considered reply — not a brochure. Usually within 24 hours, Kolkata office hours.