Where the Ganga finally leaves the Himalaya, two towns face the holy river: Haridwar, with its vast evening Aarti of fire and floating lamps, and Rishikesh, the world's yoga capital, strung with footbridges and ashrams above the rapids.
We balance the two sides of the place - sunrise yoga and riverside ashrams with an afternoon of white water through the foothills - then climb to Mussoorie, the genteel "Queen of the Hills" and Ruskin Bond's Landour, for cool air and long views.
It is equal parts calm and adrenaline, and the spiritual doorway to the Char Dham and the high Himalaya beyond.
Rishikesh, where the Ganges leaves the mountains for the plains, is the yoga capital of the world and a hub of gentle adventure. Dawn yoga on the riverbank, the Ganga Aarti at Parmarth Niketan, white-water rafting on the rapids, the iconic suspension bridges and the foothill ashrams - it is the Ganges at its most spiritual and most energetic.
Haridwar→Rishikesh→Mussoorie